[Gllug] Linux weather station!

Christopher Hunter cehunter at gb-x.org
Sun Feb 21 06:17:17 UTC 2010


On Sat, 2010-02-20 at 21:31 +0000, Chris Bell wrote:

>    It is easiest with a powerful temperature controlled iron, not a cheapo.
> The iron I use most is a low voltage iron which has a bit that reaches its
> Curie point and loses its magnetic properties at the required temperature,
> releasing the switch. Clean the bit on a wet non-abrasive pad, and use cored
> self-fluxing solder.

Ah - you use a Weller!  Very good iron, but expensive.  If you can't
afford one of those, there are some electronically temperature
controlled irons available from CPC that are very good and cost about
half as much.  

Do not buy your soldering iron from Maplin - indeed folks, try not to
ever buy anything from Maplin - their prices are bizarre, and they need
to be boycotted until they sort themselves out. 

A few other things to remember when soldering: 

Firstly - try to avoid "lead-free" solder.  The modern replacement stuff
is rubbish, and makes soldering much more difficult than it needs to be.

Secondly - cleanliness really counts.  Clean component leads before you
solder them, and also clean the PCB, Veroboard or tag strip that you're
going to use.  It's worth degreasing as well to remove the oil from
fingerprints - you'll find that the solder flows more easily and evenly.

Finally - when inserting component leads into a PCB or Veroboard, bend
outwards them so that the component is held in place before you solder -
this prevents the component moving as the solder sets (which can cause
"dry joints"), and makes it easier to turn the board over to solder.  I
usually fit components one-at-a-time rather than fit, solder and crop
several together.  I just find it quicker and easier that way.

Mind your fingers!

C.

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